Abstract:
Research into the barrier function of the human stratum corneum (SC) is of high relevance for the development of topical drugs and cosmetics. In recent years, research
in this area has increasingly focused on ceramides as vital components of the intercellular lipid matrix of the SC, as the role of this diverse lipid family in maintaining the skin
barrier function is still not fully understood. This work approaches the topic in two ways:
In the first part of this project, the interaction of pharmaceutically used emulsifiers on
the ceramides of the human SC was investigated in a human study, the effects of which
were analyzed in detail using liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry
(LC-MS). This detailed analysis of the ceramides in the SC was then used as the basis
for a regression analysis, which was able to associate individual ceramide classes,
chain lengths, and individual ceramides with specific effects on the skin barrier. The
analysis revealed that some ceramide classes, in particular sphingosine-based
ceramides, are associated with a damaged skin barrier. Conversely, some ceramide
classes, in particular phytosphingosine-based ceramide classes, were associated with
an intact skin barrier. In the second part of the project, the established correlations
between ceramide class and skin permeability were investigated using molecular dynamics simulations (MD simulations). In this study, SC lipid membranes containing a
sphingosine-based ceramide class and a phytosphingosine-based ceramide class
were simulated, and their water permeability and structure were analyzed. The results
of the permeability measurements were consistent with the results of the human study
and showed a significant difference in the water permeability of the membranes. These
permeability differences could be linked to differences in membrane structure, particularly affecting the geometry of the ceramide head groups and the hydrogen bonds of
the membranes.